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The intensive hunt for new hop varieties
The proximity of many American craft brewers to the growing regions allows them to spend a lot of time with the hop growers and in the hop yards before, during and after harvest to continually evaluate the hops and select what they need to brew based on that.
Tim Matthews, Vice President of Global Brewing for the CANarchy Craft Brewery Collective, whose brand portfolio includes Oskar Blues from Longmont, Colorado, and Cigar City Brewing from Tampa, Florida, says: "Working with growers is an important focus for us. Actually, all breweries should be in constant contact with their suppliers. For example, we spend a lot of time visiting all our suppliers and talking to them in person so they understand what we need and what the most sustainable strategy is to produce the hops we want and that work for everyone."
Intensive contact with hop growers has enormous significance for many US craft brewers (Photo: BA)In constant contact with the hop growers
"You have to understand what makes a hop tick," Matthews continues. "Traceability is key. Every hop has a QR code that documents age, hop storage index and how it was processed. We smell the hop cones, touch them, break them open - we don't just want essential oils, terpenes and alpha components, but nowadays glycosides and especially polyphenols (molecules involved in the formation of haze)."
The majority of hops in US craft beer come from domestic production (Photo: BA)Only 13 percent of hops are imported
It follows from the proximity of American craft breweries to the sought-after hops in the United States that only 13 percent of the hops used in the USA are sourced from abroad. In addition, the amount of hops used by American breweries is increasing - in the last ten years, the average amount of hops used has increased by 87 percent to 1.72 pounds per barrel (the equivalent of 660 grams per hectolitre).
In 2019, brewers used a total of 163 different hop varieties, nearly double the amount used in 2009, according to a 2019 Brewers Association survey, an annual survey that helps hop growers make important planting decisions. Responses from members who have participated in the surveys since 2007 have shown that the market has shifted from 20 per cent to 80 per cent of acreage planted to aroma hops. The combination of increased hop usage and a greater number of hop varieties is enabling brewers to produce new beers that push the boundaries of flavour and aroma. American craft brewers have also learned on the bottling front. With the latest technologies and equipment, they minimise the amount of oxygen entering the beer, which improves shelf life. This is essential when beer is exported overseas.
Beer recipes have to be adapted to the new harvest quality every year (Photo: BA)Hop profiles change from year to year
Hops are a natural agricultural product and each hop variety varies from year to year, farm to farm, depending on terroir, weather and conditions. Even at the highest quality, the hop profile will change, which is why brewers visit hop farms regularly to cultivate relationships with growers, select hops and adjust recipes.
Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. of Chico, California, is one of the pioneers of the American brewing revolution and was instrumental in shaping beer drinkers' perceptions of American craft beer starting in the 1980s. Their flagship Sierra Nevada Pale Ale with Cascade was one of the first examples of American craft beer to be exported overseas.
Scott Jennings, brewmaster in charge of innovation at Sierra Nevada, says: "It is very important to build close relationships with our hop growers. We follow the variations and developments of the hop varieties and their character together with them. We visit them several times a year - just before harvest to get a feel for the basic quality, then again at harvest time where we make a selection of the early-harvested varieties, and another time after harvest so we can select the late-harvested varieties."
The average amount of hops used by craft breweries has risen to 660 grams per hectolitre in recent years (Photo: BA)What comes first: recipe or hop selection?
But what happens when it comes to making a new beer? Does the recipe come first or the hop selection first? Scott Jennings: "It goes both ways, depending on the source of inspiration! Sometimes a clear mental flavour profile points the way, other times there's a nice new hop that needs a beer it fits ideally into. Then we build a recipe specifically for that hop."
American craft breweries are known around the world for their innovative use of raw materials and brewing techniques. Stone Brewing Co. of Escondido, California, takes a two-pronged approach to hop selection - "core beers" and "hop innovation", explains Joel Grosser, Vice President Brewing Operations and Brewmaster at Stone: "When it comes to hop selection for core beers, we focus on consistency. We select batches that deliver the exact same flavour profile year after year, and we want every Stone IPA to bring the same great taste experience no matter where you drink it. We achieve this through our relationship with growers and suppliers. For 'hop innovation' we are looking for something new and exciting. Innovation is part of the Stone DNA, and staying at the forefront of hop varieties and flavour is critical to our success."
